All Manner of Optick Glasses After the Latest Manner: Spectacles in Georgian London



Frances Barton was born around 1737 (although some say as early as 1731) near Vinegar Yard off the Strand, where her father had a shoe stall. Her mother died when she was young and her father did not remarry. Fanny had the good luck to be a very beautiful little girl, and her father and brother (who ran a pub in Stanway Yard later in life) sent her out to sell nosegays. Her cheeky spirit and quick ear soon meant she was singing to the customers and reciting bits and pieces she had heard on the streets of Covent Garden. The actors and actresses thought she was hilarious and used to put her up on a table and get her to sing or act for them and give her a few pence in return. A shrewd girl, she began to learn passages from the famous poets and bring them forth to great amusement, and no doubt a few more pennies.
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I am increasingly being asked to review books on the Georgian period and I'm very happy to do so. Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen is written by Sarah Jane Downing and published by Shire Books.
The fashions and conventions of the Regency period hold a special place in the hearts of many as a time of femininity and delicate entertainments. Downing's book is a slim volume, running to 63 pages and lavishly illustrated with a fine cross-section of illustrations from the period. She has chosen well, and her examples are apposite and appealing in the context of her writing. She ties the life of Austen into the events happening in Britain and abroad, and how they affected the fashions and social lives of Regency men and women.This is definitely a book for Austen fans, and devotees of the Regency period. It is written with a light touch and an eye to the realities of dressing in fine and costly fabrics. The attention to menswear is particularly interesting. I was also taken with the reference to Rousseau's theories about childhood freedom and how it affected clothes for children.Whilst clearly passionate about her subject, Downing is not above bringing in the voice of the satirists who mocked the fashionable. This is a valuable little volume for anyone interested in Regency costume, and very handy for anyone writing about the period: both distracting and informative.Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen is available from Shire Books, and Amazon, RRP £5.99Comments [1]

There is a traditional image that goes along with being interested in history and let's be honest, it's not a good one: packed lunches, sensible shoes, no make-up....I know, I know. At parties, when people ask me what I do, I lay a small bet with myself (and always win) that they'll say, 'That's interesting'. They don't mean it. You can tell by the way their eyes slide towards the exit.
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It stands 6 inches high. It isn't a teapot, or a coffee pot, and not for hot chocolate either. Only ever made in silver, late 18th and early 19th century. Answers in the comments please.
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Ask anyone vaguely interested in the metalwork of the 18thC for the name of a female silversmith and nine times out of ten they'll reply, 'Hester Bateman', and not without good reason. Hester is rightly famous for being an illiterate widow who took her late husband's business by the scruff of its neck and forged a dynasty of successful silversmiths; she is wrongly famous for being an artisan who actually manufactured any of the pieces bearing her name. Many collectors and historians delight in the concept of an uneducated widow hammering out some of the prettiest pieces of Georgian silver, but as much as the history-lover in me wants to believe, the evidence simply isn't there.
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There are no points for the answer 'bucket': you have to tell me what it was for, how it was used and why. Answers in the comments please.
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Some time ago I noted in a blog post about Bart's Hospital that the hospital's methods of obtaining bodies for anatomical study would bear further scrutiny, ideally as a PhD thesis (not by me, I hasten to add). Last weekend, an article appeared in the Guardian regarding Don Shelton's latest paper in the Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine, where he posits that surgeons William Hunter and William Smellie had women at their full-term of pregnancy murdered or 'burked' to provide bodies to further their obstetric studies. He's right in that the numbers don't add up, and that it is rare for a woman to die at full-term but without having begun labour, which seems to be their favoured choice of subject. However, whilst he has made a valuable study and some very salient points, I stall at his inference of murder. If you care what I think (and why should you?), this is why I don't agree.
There is no argument that both Smellie and Hunter were unscrupulous when it came to acquiring subjects for study, or for Hunter's medical 'museum' of freakery. Hunter in particular behaved appallingly over the corpses of various subjects he had his eye on, bribing family and friends to bring the body to him after the final illness, whatever the wishes of the person in question. Most famously, he paid the friends of Irish giant Charles Byrne five hundred pounds to supply him with Byrne's body, despite the fact that Byrne hated Hunter and specifically requested that he be buried at sea to avoid the anatomist's knife <this is an error on my part - it was actually John Hunter, William's younger brother who did this>. Being utterly ruthless and sanctioning murder are not the same. At one point, Hunter noted against Smellie's study of twins in utero that Dr MacKenzie, Smellie's assistant had procured and dissected the body without Smellie's knowledge 'was the cause of a separation between them, as the leading steps to such discovery could not be kept secret'. This indicated that the woman had been obtained by methods not sanctioned by Smellie and that he did not want to be associated with such methods. Hunter and Smellie were rivals medically, and both were aware that the whole business of procuring subjects would not bear scrutiny in polite society, but it doesn't mean they were turning a blind eye to the possible murdering of pregnant women.Shelton examines the mechanisms of burial and arrives, quite rightly, at the conclusion that most 'resurrected' bodies were obtained from the poorhouses, either pre or post burial. He also asserts that people in a paupers' cemetery were placed in large pits and left uncovered until the pit was full. Nowhere in any of my studies have I found this to be true. Yes, destitute people were placed in communal graves in burial grounds throughout the city, but they were placed there with a bit of dignity and covered over with earth, even if others were later to be added to the grave. They were also prayed over by the incumbent. The pragmatism displayed by Georgian Londoners in the face of death and illness is not the same as being callous or unfeeling.The rarity of death in women at full-term is a fact that cannot be argued with. However, in this we are largely influenced by modern statistics and the success of modern obstetric medicine, but pre-eclampsia is a dangerous condition still common now, affecting up to ten percent of pregnancies. Characterized by very high blood pressure, pain in the chest, damage to vital organs through raised blood protein levels, seizures and possible cerebral haemmorhages, there was no effective treatment for this condition in the 18thC. Sufferers describe the attendant pains of pre-eclampsia as unbearable, and medicate accordingly which may have resulted in overdose. If untreated, pre-eclampsia can prove fatal to both mother and child, and in Georgian London, would have meant many more mothers died when heavily pregnant, but without loss or damage to the body that would prevent an anatomist making a detailed study of the gravid uterus.My last point is upon Shelton's light treatment of the 'resurrectionists'. Obtaining corpses for anatomical study wasn't an obvious career choice, granted. It would require a strong stomach, both morally and literally and a network of connections with like-minded individuals. Nevertheless, it was a job, perhaps coupled with another part-time occupation, but one taken seriously by those who engaged in it. They would know the poorhouses and those who supervised, they'd watch to see who came and went. Scoliotic, palsied, deformed or otherwise 'freakish' subjects were all required, as well as pregnant women. No doubt palms were heavily greased for word of a death. I don't believe for a moment that resurrectionists simply disinterred corpses 'randomly'. Most were probably never even buried. Vultures may be abhorrent creatures, but they let nature do the killing.From the study of Smellie and Hunter's extant works, it appears they obtained 32 full term corpses in 13 years. I believe this number of women were available through natural death, but their bodies were obtained through fairly creepy and suspect supply chains, rather than murder. The woman pregnant with twins was clearly too much for MacKenzie to resist, and I am sure there were indeed murders associated with the study of anatomy, but I disagree with the condemnation of Smellie and Hunter as serial-killers and the sensationalism is both unpleasant and inaccurate. The inference that the men also worked on women rendered unconscious but still alive has no basis in fact whatsoever.<to further clarify this point: women were not 'anatomized' whilst still alive, although there are cases where C-sections were undertaken with little hope of the mother's survival. This does not make the operating doctor a monster.> Smellie and Hunter were at the top of the medical tree, doing valuable work. Associated with them were a large number of 'worker bees', from the artist Jan van Rymsdyk, who produced the astonishing images in the gallery to the poorhouse supervisor who shuffled the bodies out of the back door, to the grave-digger who after dark disinterred a body he had only just covered over. For my money, Rymsdyk is the scary one: he sat with these bodies for hours, studying them in minute detail and there is an adoring beauty to his renderings of these unfortunate women and their children: the sitting posture of the gravid woman, with her knees covered by a blanket, but her internal organs displayed by the neat flaying of the anatomist, and the baby curled snugly inside her, a stray wisp of its hair escaping the womb. There is a liveliness and humanity to the drawings that eludes the photographer's lens in post-mortem photography.It is too easy to look back at history and attribute cruelty and inhumanity to people who lived in a time when death was a closer companion than it is now. As I hope this blog has shown, the 18thC is an interesting enough place to spend time even without sensationalism.Comments [12]
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