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'The Life, Spring and Motion of the Trading World': A Very Brief Account of Georgian London's Foreign Import and Export Trade

London, like Venice was a trading hub, and throughout the documents of the 18thC, London is compared with her Italian counterpart in all things apart from our 'superior' manner of government (they let 'tradesmen' govern in Venice, can you imagine?).  I am inclined to think that our import and export business was slightly less glamorous than that of the Floating City's, but perhaps familiarity has bred contempt and a fine piece of cheddar was as highly valued in Venice as parmesan cheeses were in London.  

This blog post is a very brief overview of our import and export trade in the mid-18thC and reflects the abundance of foreign goods available in London, and thus throughout England.  I think it is hard to over-estimate the extent to which the ordinary people of London were involved in 'trade' and to the extent they identified themselves as 'tradesmen'.  The expansion of the Empire beneath the Tudor family's reign had opened up parts of the world formerly inaccessible to the English people, and the writers of the 18thC certainly looked back on their medieval forebears as ruder cousins, lacking sophistication and knowledge of the world.  Trade brought not only goods to England's shores, but new ideas, schools of thought and scientific developments; our own advances were also traded as part of the ongoing development of the civilized world.  This air of enthusiasm, excitement and potential is lost to modern London where we are little more than a hub for financial services, and an exporter of bad cars, worse actresses and Newcastle Brown Ale.

England was beaten only by the Dutch for international trade, 'a country not much bigger than Yorkshire, and with a soil naturally barren'.  However, the legacy of the Spanish was a superb navy, and they were 'mighty in traffic'.  The wealth of the Dutch merchants was thrown into sharp relief in 1747 when the government went to them in crisis: they put over six millions pounds (sterling) at the service of the government in less than four hours.  It is almost impossible to put a modern figure to this sum, but it's more than a billion pounds.  In cash.  With those sorts of amounts, it isn't hard to see how the Netherlands convinced the poorer countries of the world, possessed of valuable commodities, to trade with them over any other nation.  Britain had struggled with long and sapping wars, and the countries with which it traded were in decline.  They had one large advantage over the Dutch though: the plantations.  The tobacco, sugar and other byproducts of the American and Caribbean plantations were vital to keeping England, and London, wealthy.

Merchants tended not to deal in one commodity; it was too risky.  Instead, they would deal in the produce of one country, hence Virginia merchants (tobacco and wood), and French merchants (wine and foodstuffs).  England imported wine, sugar, flax, hemp, cotton, rums, copper and iron ore amongst other basic products such as indigo for dyes.  It also imported a large quantity of fish from America, but it was deemed fit only for the Levant.  England exported made-up clothing, furniture, cutlery, haberdashery, clocks, glassware, toys and all manner of 'fancy goods'.  The rule of thumb is that England imported raw products, but exported finished products of a relatively high standard.  The upper-classes of Ireland had a strong 18thC, and were buying heavily from the London markets, but the poor remained very poor, often arriving in England with little more than a strong back and a desire for gin.  Robert Campbell made an acid note of the English attitude to the Irish, 'The balance paid by Ireland in exchange of goods, and the money spent by their gentry and nobility in England, amount to at least one million sterling per annum, which is a greater advantage (relative profit) than we reap from all our other branches of commerce; yet we grudge these people the common privileges of subjects, despite their persons, and condemn their country, as if it was a crime to be born in that kingdom from when we derive the greatest part of our wealth'.

Exports of fancy goods to Denmark and Sweden are recorded, in exchange for woods and minerals, although this trade was apparently dying out by the late 18thC.  To Turkey we sent lead, tin and sugar, and received carpets, coffee, and silks.  Tin and wool were sent to Portugal, and wine, olive oil and ready money were received in return.  To the East Indies, we sent woollen clothes, hats, firearms and silver bullion, but imported gold, diamonds, spices, drugs, tea, porcelain, china, silk, cotton, salt-petre and various other goods.  It was judged a very profitable branch of England's trade, and no wonder.  The less savoury aspects of our history are also recorded in our exports of guns, swords and cutlasses to Guinea, 'in exchange for negroes to work on our plantations, gold dust, and elephants' teeth'.

This is a broad subject for a blog post and does not take into account the 'triangular' nature of the slave trade.  I will tackle it in more detail in future but until then, I quote Campbell again, in what has to be one of the greatest comments on the English relationship with France, ever:

We export to France scarce anything but lead and tin, some tobacco to Dunkirk and some salmon from Scotland but we import wine, brandy, silks of various sorts, cambrics, laces of thread and of gold and of silver, paper cards and an innumerable quantity of trifling jewels and toys; for all which we pay an annual balance of one million and a half.  In reckoning up the imports from France, I should have mentioned pride, vanity, luxury, and corruption; but as I could make no estimate by the custom-house books of the quantity of these goods entered, I chose to leave them out.

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Filed under  //   Black London.   French London   Immigrants   Indian London   London's Food   Muslim London   Trading in London  

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Retail Therapy: An overview of shopping in Georgian London

Shopping had a different structure during the Georgian period and this post is little more than an overview of a massive subject.  Food shopping was a daily routine and based mainly around the markets all over the City.  Coal was delivered to the house by men who built up rounds and rented storage space in cellars in each locality, then carried individual sacks (or small barrow-loads) to each house.  This was also the same with water, which was usually local and clean well water, but also came from as far away as Epsom, or even Buxton for the discerning palate.  Water was delivered in hods, hence the term 'hod-carrier', now used mainly in the building trade.  Milkmaids who worked for a dairyman or woman carried their milk about the streets using a yoke and shouting their wares.  Self-employed milkmaids (almost always Welsh) lead their cow on their rounds and milked it at the door, ringing a bell in each square or when she arrived in the street.  Babies and those with a cow's milk intolerance (yes, it was recognised then) could have milk from the asses who were also led around the streets.  Pretty girls were deployed from the market gardens to sell perishable foods and herbs such as cherries, asparagus and lavender, from baskets often carried on their heads (probably not in this weather though).

Although most food was sold from roving basket carriers or market stalls, some foods with a longer shelf-life, such as cheeses and preserved meats were sold in large warehouses around the Strand, Covent Garden and Leadenhall in the City.  Many of these warehouses specialized according to nationality, and a few xenophobic pamphlets of the late 17thC complain of the stinking garlic sausages hung up to dry in the windows of the French warehouses.  Early shops, and particularly those trading before the fire of London were simply part of the house where the shopkeeper lived.  Beneath the front window was one large shutter on a hinge, which would be propped up in the morning, parallel with the window-sill.  The window were then opened and goods put out on the table, or arranged inside on shelving (typical of bakeries).  A visitor to London (Lorenzo Magalotti) remarked in his diary that these shops were 'mostly under the care of well-dressed women' who were aided by their young apprentices.  This seems an excellent system, appealing to almost all buyers.  It also sheds light on the employment of women in the 18thC (more in another post), who were not simply expected to stay at home, meek and mild, but to get involved in running the thousands of little family businesses throughout London.    

After the Fire, many shops, particularly those selling more expensive items were rebuilt with room inside to show goods, and the family moved upstairs.  The Royal Exchange was the model for these shops, which were fitted out in a commodious fashion and again, staffed mainly by women and the apprentices.  Fixed shop windows, where a permanent display of books, wallpapers, paintings, carving, silks and fabrics, gloves and lace could remain for longer than a day, became popular.  Many tailors' and dressmakers' shops doubled as places to drink tea and coffee and meet with the girls for a natter.  Most tailors and dressmakers sold clothes off the peg which could then be altered by seamstresses who often hung out wooden needles or signs from their lodgings when they were available to work.  It was a matter of knocking on the door, trying on the garments, discussing what needed to be done and picking them up later: an excellent arrangement (Samuel Pepys bizarre obsession with his 'little seamstress' makes interesting reading.  There were two garden centres selling everything from tools to seedlings to trees in the Strand for people with nothing better to do with their Sunday afternoon.  The pet-shops on the north side of Covent Garden sold everything from song-thrushes caught on Hampstead Heath to marmosets in little outfits.  There was a household emporium near Holborn specializing in domestic pewter for kitchens and taverns, but also buckets, spoons and other treen and there were plenty of opticians who tested the eyes and sold spectacles both made to measure and off the peg (plain green and blue lenses were also used to help with light sensitivity and quite possibly, dyslexia, by stabilizing the visual field).  

The largest and grandest shops were obviously those catering to the rich, including Thomas Chippendale's cabinet-making workshop and showroom, John Burroughs, the furniture-maker on Cornhill, Moxon's the scientific instrument maker in Warwick Lane, Paul de Lamerie, the goldsmith and jeweller in Soho.  These shops were beautifully fitted out and allowed customers to browse at their considerable stock accompanied by an apprentice to show them the merits of each piece.  This allowed the apprentices to learn about the stock, and about the nature of retailing.  It also helped them to build clientele which they could either take with them when they set up their own business, or for long-term relationships with whilst working for their master.  Customers were served with tea and coffee, shown pattern-books, entertained and generally spoiled.

Shops were dependent upon the rhythm of daylight hours.  Food shops opened at dawn and stayed open until they had sold out for the day, or until dark.  Most other shops opened at 8am and stayed open until nightfall, or 9pm in the summer.  It's also worth bearing in mind that as a nation of shopkeepers, there were no chain-stores and each shop traded as they saw fit; much more interesting than the modern high street.

Anyone interested in learning more would be advised to read Dorothy Davis's excellent History of Shopping.

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'To roast a turkey in the genteel way'

To roast a turkey or fowl to perfection

Bone them, and make a force-meat thus: take the flesh of a fowl, cut it small, then take a pound of veal, beat it in a mortar, with half a pound of beef-suet, as much crumbs of bread, some mushrooms, truffles and morels cut small, a few sweet-herbs and parsley, with some nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a little mace beaten, some lemon-peel cut fine; mix all these together, with the yolks of two eggs, then fill your turkey, and roast it.  Let your sauce be good gravy, with mushrooms, truffles and morels in it: then garnish with lemon,

In addition to this glorious-sounding turkey, the table was likely to be laden with mince pies, both sweet and savoury, a chine of beef, salads of sweet-herbs, green peas in cream, braised celery or endive, roasted potatoes, cabbage stewed in butter (but 'retaining its crispness'), followed by plumb-pudding, a lemon pudding and a gooseberry pie.  Both white and red wine would be on the table; the white probably English or German, and the red French.  If you had a spare corner left, sugared almonds and little pieces of Hannah's broken up chocolate bars could be had with your heavy Port.  

May your Christmas be as perfect as this sounds.

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'Side dishes for the Christmas Table': The product of the kitchen and fruit garden, December-

The modern return to seasonal eating throws into sharp relief the variety of food available to us in any given month; reading Hannah's manual (Art of Cookery) throws into even sharper relief the variety of native fruits and vegetables now lost to us in Britain through both neglect and intensive agriculture.  Just in case anyone thought the people of the 18thC sat shivering throughout the winter, gnawing on a frozen turnip and praying for the thaw, I give you Hannah's entry for the fruits and vegetables that made good eating during December:

Many sorts of cabbages and savoys, spinach, and some cauliflowers in the conservatory, and artichokes in sand.  Roots we have as in the last month (carrots, parsnips, turnips, beets, skirrets, scorzonera, horse-radish, potatoes, onions, garlick, shalots, rocumbole, sellery).  Small herbs on the hot-beds for salads, also mint, tarragon and cabbage-lettuce preserved under glasses; chervil, sellery, and endive blanched (meaning forced I think).  Sage, thyme, savoury, beet-leaves, tops of young beets, parsley, sorrel, spinach, leeks, and sweet marjoram, marigold-flowers, and mint dried.  Asparagus on the hot-bed, and cucumbers on the plants sown in July and August, and plenty of pears and apples (also left from November were bullaces, medlars, arbutas, walnuts, hazel-nuts, and chestnuts).

The available fruit varieties include: Some grapes, the Kentish, russet, golden, French, kirton and Dutch pippins, John apples, winter queenings, the marigold and Harvey apples, pom-water, golden-dorset, renneting, love's pearmain, and the winter pearmain; winter burgomot, winter-boncretien, winter mask, winter Norwich, and great furrein pears.

And not a sprout in sight.  The sheer variety here prompts me to add a note about London's supply of fresh fruit and vegetables; Kent is widely thought of as 'the Garden of England' and there's quite a lot of truth in this, certainly for London's supply of all those wonderful-sounding apples and grapes, but Fulham was London's hot-house, explaining a lot about its infrastructure today.  Fulham's transport links are notoriously rubbish for somewhere so close to central London, but this is in no small part down to its role as London's local market garden, where family businesses held relatively large plots of land with greenhouses and nurseries, supplying nearby Covent Garden daily.  In the Victorian period, when the pressure for land became intolerable, those families made a fortune selling up their five or ten acres to the new 'speculating builders' who put up the rows of terraced houses still standing today.  Because the development happened so rapidly, there was no time for a natural transport structure to evolve, which is still the case almost two centuries later, particularly on a Friday night.  

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Hannah's Yorkshire Christmas Pie

There are few recipes in Hannah Glasse's original Art of Cookery that relate specifically to Christmas, but the following receipt for a pie mentions it was given now, when it was sliced thinly 'for a supper dish'. I love the idea of all these enormous pies (at a rough guess, 80lbs) 'winging' their way South on the roof of a coach.

To make a Yorkshire Christmas pie.

First make a good standing crust, let the wall and bottom be very thick; bone a turkey, a goose, a fowl, a partridge, and a pidgeon.  Season them all very well, talk half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of black pepper, all beat fine together, two-large spoonfuls of salt, and then mix them together.  Open the fowls all down the back, and bone them; first the pigeon, then the partridge, cover them; then the fowl, then the goose, and then the turkey, which must be large; season them all well first and lay them in the crust, so as it will look only like a whole turkey; then have a hare already eased (skinned), and wipe with a clean cloth.  Cut it to pieces; that it, joint it; season it, and lay is as close as you can on one side; on the other side woodcocks, moor game and what sort of wild fowl you can get.  Season them well, and lay them close; put at least four pounds of butter into the pie, then lay on your lid, which must be a very thick one and let it be well baked.  It must have a very hot oven, and will take at least four hours.  

This crust will take a bushel of flour.  In this chapter you will see how to make it.  These pies are often sent to London in a box as presents; therefore the walls must be well-built.  

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Hannah Glasse podcast

  
(download)

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Chocolate and lip balm, 18th century style

Every century has an epic lady cookery writer: Elizabeth David and Isabella Beeton obviously spring to mind for the 20th and 19th centuries, but how many of you have heard of Hannah Glasse?  Like all great cookery writers, Hannah's life was a bit of a mess, but her most famous work, Art of Cookery, first published in 1747 was the household book of the 18th century.  It would eventually save Hannah from the debtors' prisons of the Fleet and the Marshalsea, and enable her as a widow to raise her eight children.  

Hannah was born in 1708 in London, but raised in the North.  She married John Glasse, a man in service and moved with him first to Essex, then to London.  As a wife and mother, Hannah spent her time producing the enormous Art of Cookery, but the year it was published, by subscription, her husband died.  She struggled to support her family, despite the huge success of her book and it seems likely she was taken advantage of.  Hannah would go on to write more books, but nothing equalled the success of her mammoth cooking and household manual, and she died in 1770 with only a short note in the London Gazette to her name.  In 2010, I will be blogging about London's 18thC career women, but I am dedicating this Christmas week to Hannah Glasse.

Elizabeth David is commonly credited with introducing the ignorant British to European food.  Not so.  Hannah's book contains recipes for food done in the Dutch, German, French, Spanish, Italian, West Indian, East Indian and Jewish 'fashions', most using authentic ingredients such as spices, truffles and morels that were clearly available in London at the time.  She includes recipes for those on tight budgets, as well as those for cooking sixty pound turtles, and she makes chocolate in no small quantities:

Take six pounds of cocoa-nuts, one pound of aniseeds, four ounces of long pepper, one of cinnamon, a quarter of a pound of almonds, one pound of pistachios, as much achiote (annatto) as will make it the colour of brick; three grains of milk, and as much ambergrease, six pounds of loaf sugar, one ounce of nutmegs, dry and beat them, and fierce them through a fine sieve: your almonds must be beat to a paste, and mixed with the other ingredients; then dip your sugar in orange-flower, or rose-water, and put it in a skillet, one a very gentle charcoal-fire;...stew all these very well together over a hotter fire than before; then take it up, and put it into boxes, or what form you like and set it to dry in a warm place.

Sounds good to me.  Hannah didn't limit herself to food only; she did offer some recipes for medicines, including yesterday's rabies treatment, but this is one for keeping your lips kissable during this cold weather, especially when there's so much mistletoe around:

A fine lip salve

Take two ounces of virgin's wax (pure beeswax), two ounces of hog's lard, half an ounce of spermaceti (sperm-whale wax), one ounce of oil of sweet-almonds, two drams of balsam of Peru, two drams of alkanet root cut small, six new raisins shred small, a little fine sugar, simmer them all together a little while; then strain it off into little pots.  It is the finest lip salve in the world.

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Deen Mahomet and London's First Indian Restaurant*-

 

Enough of diverting scandal, I must blog about my favourite subject: the foreigner in Georgian London.  One such character is Deen Mahomet (later Sake Dean Mahomed).  Mahomet is rightly remembered a flamboyant character.  Born to a Muslim family in Bihar in 1759 he grew up to serve in the Bengal branch of the British East India Army as a surgeon, but had been attached to the Army in some capacity since he was 10.  An Anglo-Irish officer, Captain Godfrey Baker seems to have become the boy's patron, but in 1782, Baker was forced from the Army in disgrace (after extorting money from villagers: always the mark of a gentleman).  Deen left to accompany his friend back to Ireland.  It is unclear whether he was involved in Baker's activities.  

By 1784, Deen was in Cork.  There he met Jane Daly, an Irish girl, and in 1786 they eloped to marry due to her family's disapproval.  Deen began to write the story of his travels, and in 1794 published what is thought to be the first book by an Indian written in English: The Travels of Dean Mahomet.  It's a great read and very enlightening on the details of the British in India, but there's a lot of fudging by Deen on the story of his life, and around this time, his name and self-styled titles begin to change.  He and Jane came to London, and here Deen found employment with the Hon. Basil Cochrane, who had made a fortune in India and liked the people and way of life.  He opened a bath house at 12 Portman Square and employed Deen to offer 'shampooing services'.  No doubt he washed hair, but what he actually offered was Indian head and body massage with perfumed oils.  It became a huge success.  

Late in 1809, Deen opened the Hindostanee Coffee House, announcing its arrival with the following advertisement:

HINDOSTANEE COFFEE-HOUSE, No. 34 George-street, Portman square - MAHOMED, East-Indian, informs the Nobility and Gentry, he has fitted up the above house, neatly and elegantly, for the entertainment of Indian gentlemen, where they may enjoy the Hoakha, with real Chilm tobacco, and India dishes, in the highest perfection, and allowed by the greated epicures to be unequalled to any curries ever made in England with choice wines, and every accommodation, and now looks up to them for their future patronage and support, and gratefully acknowledges himself indebted for their former favours, and trusts it will merit the highest satisfaction when made known to the public.

At the same time, Deen adopted the 'Sake' bit of his name, meaning 'Venerable One'.  Although reviewed very favourably in the publications of the time, Deen struggled.  This is probably because he had started his establishment in what he thought was the perfect area (plenty of Nabobs around Marylebone at that time), but the thing was, most of them had brought Indian cooks with them who catered for their every whim, without going out to a restaurant.  Although clearly a great ideas man, Deen expanded too quickly after early success, and by 1813 he was bankrupt (although the coffeehouse continued until 1833 under different management).

Deen and his wife moved down to Brighton, where the building of the Pavilion was lending an exotic flavour to things.  He became 'shampooing surgeon' to both Prinny and later, William IV.  His financial misfortunes continued, but he appears to have been a philosophical soul, eventually dying in 1851, of a decline, after the death of his wife from uterine cancer.  They are buried together in St Nicholas's churchyard, Brighton.  

Deen and Jane had at least five children together, although the records are conflicting.  Their son William became a postman in the West End and held that position for his lifetime.  Another son, Frederick took over where his father left off in Brighton, also teaching both boxing and fencing.  His own son, also Frederick, became a surgeon at Guy's Hospital and completed pioneering research into hypertension before his early death at 35.  

Deen Mahomet and his family are an excellent example of the delicate balance between promoting one's own 'otherness' and yet becoming thoroughly immersed in a new culture.  Their integration into British society is a heady mixture of affection, family, money, skill and intellect as well as financial mismanagement and disaster, and one that deserves to be more widely known.

*I am aware that to claim any establishment as London's first anything is dangerous.  As soon as there is a small community, there are establishments to feed them with a taste of home.  However, the Deen Mahomet appears to be the first Indian to market his cuisine to the London market, rather than solely catering for his fellow Indians. 

 

     
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Today

Today I went shopping with a friend who is getting married.  When at last, I managed to pry her away from shops filled with grossly over-priced wedding frippery, we went for tea near Berkeley Square.  Weddings mean green tea and no cake apparently.  Bad luck for her.  All the more for me.

Looking around the faux-grand tea room, being served by the desultory waitress, I was inspired to come home and dig through my images of trade cards for Signor Negri's trade card.  If only we had been to the Pineapple, where we could have been served by plump putti bearing little tazza filled with pistachio and brown bread ices.  

D. Negri
Confectioner at the Pineapple
in Berkeley Square
Makes and Sells All Sorts of English, French
& Italian wet & dry'd Sweet Meats
Cedrati and Bergamot Chips.
Naples Diavolini and Diavoloni
All Sorts of Biskets & Cakes, fine and Common
Sugar Plums, Syrup of Capillaire, Orgeate and
Marsh Mallow, Ghimauve or Lozenges for Colds
and Cough, all Sorts of Ice, Fruits and Creams in the 
Best Italian maner. Likewise furnishes Entertainments in
Fashions, Sells All sorts of Deserts
& Glass work at the 
Lowest Price.

 

     
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Today.zip (281 KB)

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Hungerford Market

I find the history of Hungerford Market and the surrounding area fascinating.  It was full of grand but rotting buildings, street and river traffic, French and black immigrants, booksellers, printers (often of rather dicey material) and also a burgeoning luxury goods trade.  Closer to the large houses of the nobility than the City, it was also more squalid and often dangerous.  Much more interesting than the rows of gaudy theatres and chain stores standing there now.

Sir Edward Hungerford was born in 1632 and rose through the ranks during Charles IInd's exile, serving as a Knight of the Order of the Bath at Charles's coronation.  Edward had inherited a fortune in Wiltshire property and a London house, Durham Yard, which sat  between the Strand and the Thames, on the site of Charing Cross Station. 

Heavy debt sustained at the tables made Edward Hungerford unable to repair the mansion and the smaller buildings on the site, and they fell into disrepair.  The area at the time was one of faded grandeur.  The labyrinthine old royal and ducal palaces sat by the water, crawling with damp and neglect.  Durham House had one huge advantage: the Hungerford Steps, leading up from the Thames.  Originally the lading dock for the house, and the manner by which the family took to the water to travel to the City, it was a convenient place for traders to land their commodities for sale at nearby Covent Garden market to the north.  In a time of no supermarkets, London relied on its markets, each specializing in something different.  Nearby Covent Garden supplied fruit, vegetables, pot and pans, and gardening tools.  Rather alarmingly, it was also London's pet shop.  Fish, newts, parrots, and even monkeys could all be yours for a price. 

In the 1670s the Strand area was a warren of residential property.  Hundreds of people lived and worked in a small area. They all needed to eat, and all the food had to be brought in.  Small street markets were everywhere, and it soon became apparent that the densely populated area of the Strand needed its own market.  Edward Hungerford applied to the King for permission to establish a market on the site of Hungerford House, stating his own house, and the buildings attached to it to be 'soe old and ruinous that the same could not be rebuilt without great expence.'  A meeting was held at 'le greyhounde taverne in le Strand' to discuss the matter with local residents, and in 1678, the market was approved, with additional stall-holders allowed on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays.

 It opened in 1682; a thriving shopping mall-type affair with a covered piazza.  The immediate reception was favourable and Hungerford must have breathed a sigh of relief before returning to his cards.  He died in reduced circumstances in 1711.

Thriftless himself, but lyke the good manure,
His rotten waste did fertilise the lande,
And others' thriftye toile hath wrought the cure,
A goodlie mercatt joines the busie Strand.

Unlike most London markets, Hungerford had no particular speciality.  It sold fish, meat, and all types of fruit and vegetables.  After 1685, the area became very popular with the French Huguenot refugees, and the market was known for selling 'furren' foods.  Christopher Wren and his partner Stephen Fox purchased the market in 1684, and held it until Wren's death, when it was sold to Henry Wise.  A bust of Wren can be seen in the niche between the upper windows in the engraving.  There was a large meeting hall upstairs, which in 1688 the refugees established as Hungerford Market Church, although presumably it still functioned as a meeting room outside services.  It remained a church until 1754, when the market itself was already in decline.  However, demand for a market in the area remained high, and so many people came and went via Hungerford Stairs, that it limped on for another century, when Peter Cunningham, in his Hand-book of London, declared its failing as being 'of too general a character and attempts too much in trying to unite Leadenhall, Billingsgate, and Covent-garden Markets'.

Despite attempts to revive it, including building a suspension footbridge to the South bank, Hungerford Market failed, and was eventually pulled down to make way for Charing Cross Station, completed in 1864.  The footbridge was replaced with a railway bridge, and the suspension chains were removed to Bristol, where they completed Brunel's Clifton Suspension Bridge.

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